 | |  | Garnets
- aren't these the wonderfully deep red gemstones which are often found in
antique jewellery? Well, this is only the partial truth, as a warm and deep red
is indeed the most frequently occurring colour for Garnets. But unfortunately
only few people know that the realm of Garnets holds many more bright and
beautiful colours. The traditional image of Garnet has been brightly transformed
by spectacular founds, mainly from Africa. Although red remains the major
colour, Garnets today easily adapt to any new colour trend in fashion due to the
rich range available. And because of the new founds, there are reliable sources
for steady supply in these fancy colours. All this explains why this very
gemstone family manages to keep on providing new impulses for the jewellery
events in our days.
An expert will understand "Garnet" as the
denomination for a group of over ten different gemstones with a similar chemical
structure. Although the colour red is the one which occurs most frequently,
there are also Garnets showing different shades of green, pale to bright yellow,
fiery orange and fine earth- and umbra-shades. Only blue is a colour which is
not available in Garnet. Garnets are gemstones which are in high demand and are
often worked into pieces of jewellery - especially since today not only the
traditional gemstone colours red, blue and green are cherished by the consumer,
but the intermediate shades and hues are also very popular. Besides the realm of
Garnets also possesses rarities such as asterism or atones which change their
colour from daylight to artificial light.
What else characterises this
gemstone family? First of all, there is the excellent hardness of 7 to 7.5 on
the Mohs scale. This applies, with minor variations, to all the members of the
Garnet group. And this is also an explanation why these gemstones are so
excellent to wear. Garnets are quite sturdy and resistant to everyday wear and
tear, and uncomplicated to work into jewellery. Only to hard impact or
uncontrolled heating they will react adversely. Another point in favour of
Garnets is their high refraction of light, the reason for the amazing brilliance
of Garnets. The shape of the rough crystal is also interesting. Garnet, after
all, means something like "the grainy" and is derived from the Latin word
"granum" meaning "grain". This refers to the typically rounded shape of Garnet
and also reminds of the seeds of the pomegranate. In the middle ages, Garnet was
also called "karfunkel" in German, referring to the glowing red reminding of the
sparks of fire. Today there are a lot of imaginative names used in the trade,
such as Arizona Ruby, Arizona Spinel, Montana Ruby or New Mexico Ruby.
The Garnet illuminated already Noahs Ark
Garnets have been
widely known for thousands of years. Even Noah, it is reported, used a lantern
from Garnet in order to safely steer his Ark through the darkness of the night.
Garnets are found in jewellery from ancient Egyptian, Greek and Roman eras. Many
courageous discoverers and travellers wore Garnets for protection, as they were
considered popular talismans and protective stones, because it was believed in
those days that Garnets illuminate the night and prevent their wearer from any
sort of evil. Today science explained to us that the proverbial luminosity of
Garnet is caused by its high refraction of light.
Garnets come not only
in many colours but also under many names: Andradite, Demantoid, Grossularite,
Hessonite, Pyrope, Rhodolith, Tsavorith, Spessartine, Uwarowite etc.. Let us
focus on the most important ones, and let us start with red Garnets. First of
all, there is fiery red Pyrope. Its fierce and often slightly bronze coloured
red was highly popular as gemstone colour in the 18th and 19th century.
Worldwide renowned in those days were the Bohemian Garnets from an occurrence in
the north-eastern part of the former Kingdom of Bohemia - small stones in a
wonderful colour. In Europe they were frequently used for jewellery in Victorian
times. This genuine Bohemian Garnet jewellery is traditionally decorated with
many small stones which are tightly arranged along each other like the seeds of
a pomegranate. Today Garnet is still found in the Czech Republic, and the stones
are still arranged in the traditional way, tightly joined, so that the
attraction of the classical Garnet jewellery is caused by the beauty of the
stones only.
The large central stones of the typical "rosette"
arrangements are usually also Garnets, but these come from another category.
Almandines, named after the ancient gemstone city of Alabanda in Asia Minor, are
c a little different in their chemical structure from Pyropes. Why these are
preferred as central stones? Well, Nature only grows Pyropes in small sizes, but
allows for Almandine crystals in larger dimensions.
Another red Garnet
variety is Rhodolith, a crystal mixture from Almandine and Pyrope This popular
red Garnet shows a wonderful velvety red with a fine purple or raspberry
coloured undertone. Originally discovered in the USA, it is mainly found in
gemstone mines in East Africa, India and Sri Lanka nowadays.
Colourful
World of Garnets
The fantastic found of an up to then extremely rare
Garnet variety puzzled experts all over the world some years ago. On the Kunene
river, on the border between Namibia and Angola, there was the surprising and
spectacular discovery of bright orange to red Spessartine Garnets, which were
originally named after their occurrence in the German Spessart mountains. Until
the legendary mine was discovered in Namibia, Spessartines had existed as mere
collectors items or rarities. They were hardly ever used for jewellery because
they were so rare. But the found changed the world of jewellery gemstones. From
this time on, an exceptionally fine and brightly orange-red gemstone has
completed the offered range. The trade name "Mandarine -Garnet" was coined, and
the wonderfully orange coloured Fine Garnet became world-famous almost over
night. Unfortunately the mine in the remote Namibian mountains could only be
exploited for a few years. Prospecting for the gemstones in the isolated bush
land became more and more complicated and expensive It had to be expected, then
, that the very upstart among the quality gemstones would only be available in
limited amounts from the stocks of few cutters. However, another sensation was
caused by discovering another occurrence of the orange-coloured treasures, this
time in Nigeria. In colour and brilliance they are so similar to the Namibian
stones that only experienced experts will be able to tell them apart.
And now let us focus on green Garnets. Green Garnets - do they really
exist? Of course! There are even several known green Garnet varieties. First of
all, there is Grossularite, which was created by Nature in many fine colours
from yellow to green and brown, and which is especially cherished because of the
many in-between shades. And earth-colours. Here there was also a sensational
found: In the last year of the 20th century large Grossularite occurrences were
discovered in Mali. The Mali Garnets are charming because of their high
brilliance, which makes even the usually not so popular brown colour attractive
and vivid, and the natural appeal is in wonderful harmony especially with
ethno-look inspired trends.
Possibly the most famous green Garnet is
Tsavorith or Tsavolith, another Grossularite. Tiffanys in New York re-named the
stone which had been discovered in 1967 by British geologist Campbell R. Bridges
in North-East Tanzania. The emerald-green stone was named after its occurrence
near the famous game park Tsavo-National Park. Tsavorith is of a vivid light to
velvety deep green and, like all other Garnets, of strikingly high brilliance.
The star among green Garnets is rare Demantoid, a gemstone for
connoisseurs and lovers. It shows enormous brilliance, higher even than that of
Diamond. Russias leading court jeweller Carl Faberg?loved the brilliant green
Garnet from the Urals more than any other stone, and liked to use it in his
creations. Nowadays Demantoid turns up more often in the gemstone market because
of the new founds in Namibia. Demantoids from Namibia show good colour and
brilliance, however, they lack s minor characteristic: the so-called
"horsetail-inclusions", fine bushy-shaped inclusions which are the
characteristic birthmark identifying Russian Demantoids.
Gemstone
Colours for each Fashion Trend
If you love the immaculate naturalness
and sun-drenched warm colours of Indian summer, you will fall in love with range
of colours displayed by Garnets. Today these stones come mainly from African
countries, also from India, Russia, central and south America. The skilled hands
of cutters all over the world shape them in many classical forms and more and
more also in modern fancy designers cuts. Garnets appeal generally because of
their natural and not manipulated beauty, their wide variety of colours and
their magnificent brilliance. If you buy Garnet jewellery you can be certain to
enjoy this gemstone gift from Nature permanently and without inhibitions. |  | |
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